Friday, May 23, 2014

El Dia de Los Muertos

A week and a half has gone by with me working on this sea turtle projects and it's been mostly tagging which entails going out on a panga boat (where we reach what is probably max weight with only 4 people) and swimming after turtles.  When the opportunity arises that you can get close enough to a sea turtle and grab them before they swim off, you have to fight them to the surface (unlike sea turtles, we can't hold our breaths for 30+ minutes) and swim with them back to the boat.  Then haul them into the boat (they weigh between 25-100 kilos, or 55-220 pounds) for tagging (aka fin piercing), skin samples, carapace (shell) samples, weight, body measurements, and photos.  We do this about every other day and get about 10 turtles/day.  We'll also do a census while we're out there using a technique called shark fishing.  Despite the name, it's pretty fun holding on to a towrope behind the boat and getting dragged around.  Every time a turtle is spotted underwater, the 'bait' lifts their head up and hollers whether it's a male, female, or juvenile.  And on the off days I am in the lab prepping the fresh samples for genetic analysis, while we wait for the materials to arrive so that we can actually do the analysis.  Catching turtles is more difficult than what meets the eye and the shorter you are, the smaller a reach, and hence more of a disadvantage.  But it is easier to catch turtles when they are nesting in the sand or preoccupied on something else so that they don't notice you as much which allows you to get a little closer.  I'm not very good at catching turtles and it's not something I take pleasure in because I have a hard time with my conscience knowing that I'm about to inflict stress on the animal.  Even when I'm a foot away from a turtle feeding on algae, I'll wait till it stops eating or go after another turtle or wait till it sees me and swims away.  Because really, who wants to be kidnapped (or should I say turtlenapped) while they're eating?!  I saw in the logbooks that someone had taken a turtle while it was mating... is this the point where science surpasses its boundary doing more harm than good while interfering?  And this is one of the reasons why I love being a Physical oceanographer.  It's a type of science that will always be there as long as the earth is spinning and won't die nor be negatively impacted by scientists.

Now today/yesterday (breaking up the writing and publishing of this post) the horrible news that my very 1st dog and 2nd 'real' pet ('real' meaning it lived longer than a week and not including the hamster whose fate had always been doomed from the beginning), Jake, who I use to give bear hugs to and massaged his ears and used him as a pillow and repeatedly pat the sweet spot just above his tail to make him squat then sit and gave kisses to (not the most sanitary but hey I love him), but who had the stinkiest farts I've smelt and would wait till someone momentarily left the kitchen to jump up and put his paws on the table to scarf down a grilled cheese or a whole plate of turkey bacon or sleep on the beds when everyone left the house (only occurred in his older years) or get chased around by cats and sometimes suffer a scratch on the face after stealing the neighbors' cat food.  So yes I am very very sad and if anyone wanted to send me a cheer up package I would super appreciate it.  Also if you know me super super well (probably this only really classifies my family since I try to hide it from others), you know that I don't deal with emotions like sadness or rage very well (a character flaw of mine) and usually these emotions manifest themselves into other matters in my life affecting those too making it more pronounced to other people despite my efforts to keep those emotions hidden.  So further support for a cheer up package to maintain my sanity.

IF that wasn't one way to start off a day, too damn bad it doesn't get any better.  Today/yesterday was one of those turtle capturing days except the PhD guy, whose project this is, didn't go out with us so it was 3 twenty-one year olds, 2 of which are new to the project (1 of those is me), and a twenty-year old whose first day it was volunteering on the project.  In total 2 gringos and 2 locals.  So we go to this shallow and rocky surf break, Canyon, to catch turtles and me & another student are out snorkeling for the turtles, meanwhile I'm keeping an eye out for the sets which weren't that big, only waist-stomach high, but with a bit of juice behind them.  Well I finally get a turtle and bring it back to the boat and a guy lifts it up and gets it over the railing but then drops it on my head and I get whacked by the turtle's carapace which knocks my mask off.  A little while later we've got 2 turtles on deck and we're taking all our samples and such.  So I'm jumping back and forth between these two turtles writing down measurements for one and taking pictures for another when I ask someone to hold the turtle up for me so that I can get a picture of the plastron.  [Side note:  We place black mesh bags over their eyes to keep the turtles more calm, but it can easily fall off while the turtle is moving around.]  As he takes off the black mesh and lifts up the turtle I notice the lank neck, open eyes, and open mouth.  The look of death.  I tell the others, but they don't believe me at first.  Wasn't hard to convince them.  So what do we do with a turtle that was alive when we brought it on the boat and is now dead?  I called 'the boss' who told us to bring the body back with us when we return and continue catching more turtles.  Great.  If my dog's death isn't already enough.  And the whole time after this kid is teasing me saying I killed it (which I had no part in, didn't catch it or take samples or measurements, only photos) which started out just a nuisance but really upset me seeing as my dog died and now this turtle and he couldn't read when to quit (same kid who dropped the turtle on my head).  Once we finished we had to dump everything out of one of the crates to put the body of the turtle in and then cover it up to smuggle it to the dock without anyone noticing.  This made me question the legality of our actions.  Also the tone of the boss gave me suspicions too.  After returning to the university we cleaned up the equipment and dragged a metal table outside to begin the turtle autopsy behind the university with a couple of kitchen knives and a handful of disposable razors.  As they cut open and enjoyingly hacked around the inside of the turtle, I notice a slight ring of foam leaching from the turtle's mouth.  Curious about this, I open up the mouth to investigate farther and notice some algae in there.  Taking this for sampling I then get the person with the knife to cut open the throat only to discover that there is more algae shoved in there.  We follow this down to the stomach where there again is even more algae and I take this for sampling also.  Seeing how there were no boat strikes nor carapace problems and the turtle looked perfectly healthy, I throw out the hypothesis that the turtle choked.  After the dissection we cleaned up the blood and guts, disposed them in the woods behind the university, and tomorrow we will dispose of the body.  So I go home around 6 and have to get ready for a surprise birthday party for my bro-in-law who is a park ranger.  But his wife and a couple of other people are over when I get home so I have to wait till I'm alone with my mom to ask her about the legality of what happened earlier today.  It would also suck to get arrested by my bro-in-law on his birthday in front of the family.  I finally get a little bit of time late at night after returning to the house to ask her what you can and can't do.  No surprise that she said what we did was illegal, but we have park permits for our research (which I've never been shown nor have been given to read but know exist somewhere) but I don't know what this allows us to do for such scenarios like the one we're facing.


Jakey




Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Back to business... or rather not

All the students have left to return to Amurica minus a handful of us from UNC who are staying to do research in Ecuador and Galapagos for an extra 6 weeks.  So since I'm working on a Tortuga project, I've got 5 weeks in Galapagos and 1 final week back in Quito where I plan on traveling to as many places possible... this also translates to tacking back on the "smart traveler" secret fanny pack under my shirt to hold the most valuable things, because yea that shit happens.  Now about this sea turtle project, I'm like the cream in the middle of an Oreo cookie.  On one side of me I have a professor who believes that mammals (including sea turtles) have feelings and maybe even theology, and her approach to research is taking a passive "let's not harm the sea turtles" strategy of snorkeling and taking pics of the carapace and both sides of the turtle's face.  The other cookie is a young PhD candidate who has turtles fleeing when they hear his name, applying a more hard scientific approach with tagging, extracting scutes (scales) off the turtle, and taking blood samples.  As their disagreeing views on science suggest, the 2 scholars are not amigos.  The professor has asked me to do an independent project on my own and the other has asked me to come in 6 days a week for 8 hours a day to work w/o pay, w/o scholarly recognition, and w/ only 3 hours of academic credit.  Since communication is obviously minimal b/w the 2 and neither of them are here on the island I've been hokying around the past couple of days.  The candidate asked me to meet with him on Monday (this past Monday) to begin working (after asking me 6 times when I could start and what my schedule was for the next 5 weeks).  However on Sunday I received an email from him saying that he and the project team were going to Darwin and Wolf for the week and I would start the following Monday.  Normally this could be one of those things you can just shrug off, but this is different because it's Darwin and Wolf (and also the tone in his email was like a taunting child who has something desirable but isn't going to share).  Darwin and Wolf are the 2 islands way up in the north of the archipelago (upper left corner of the figure below) surrounded by the richest marine life:  sharks, whales, turtles, fish, rays, EVERYWHERE!  I think the best way to sum it up is like this:  the reputation Galapagos has to the rest of the world as unique, isolated, and dream destination is how Darwin and Wolf are to the rest of the Galapagos.


Only 3 boats have permission to visit these islands, which I may add are very expensive boats.  Hence the opportunity to go here is like winning the lottery and the message saying this guy and the team are going this week but I'm not invited is worse than going a school year w/o surf and watching perfect warm water rights come in but can't go out.  He's def not scoring brownie points on this gal with that move, and it's his PhD that he wants help with, not mine.  Yea, ok, so in the meantime just snorkeling with sea turtles and reading anything I can get my hands on in the university library (mind you it's just a couple of shelves w/ mainly discarded textbooks students didn't want to drag back to the states) which happens to be a good amount of cheesy-romance-tragedy shore stories. 

Took a small break from writing this to go to a spot called Tijeretas to snorkel for tortugas.  Didn't find any sea turtles but did do flips and spins in the water playing with a sea lion pup as he was following me around on my search.  Needless to say I got a little sidetracked, but it's impossible to resist the innocent cuteness of a sea puppy.  This afternoon:  more reading, eating the leftover croissant w/ cheese & guayaba marmalade from my plate from breakfast that I couldn't fit in my stomach but successfully stowed away from my mom while she wasn't looking, I've got dimes, nickels, and pennies saved up to buy an ice cream, and maybe another swim.  Sometime this week I'm going over to a local friend's house for dinner w/ his fam; hopfully I'll have one of my better Spanish moments then. 

ps. limited to uploading only the shortest of my videos so this will have to do



Shenanigans